Rocks and Sand

Death Valley's contradictions were in play on the second day of Josh's hike. Instead of open desert, he descended into the narrow of Marble Canyon. The high walls helped keep the full heat of the day away and he comfortably walked along the path for miles before seeing day tourists approaching for the canyon trailhead. They were the first people he'd seen in two days.

He knew the trailhead had to be close and after a few miles, the canyon gave way... to a sea of rocks. The next leg was a slog around the bumpy terrain, but eventually Josh came to the crossroads. The road split. One way led back to the main road through the park, the other to the Cottonwood trailhead and his Jeep.

He followed the road for a mile then set up camp, ate and rested. He had walked more than 10 miles already, but the Jeep was only another 3 miles away. As night fell, he decided to make a run for it.

Leaving his pack at camp, he traveled light through the dark desert guided only by moon and stars. He ran up the road, jumping streams as he got closer to the Cottonwood wash, until he saw his traveling companion waiting for him.

The next morning was New Year's Eve. He woke up with everything he needed by his side and packed camp. After three days alone in the desert, he would celebrate 2007 with thousands in Las Vegas.

Signpost Up Ahead?

Death Valley National Park might seem like the Twilight Zone. It's 3,000 square miles of contradictions, from the extreme heat, moving rocks, and the lowest point in the U.S. (Badwater only 76 miles from the it's highest point (Mt. Whitney). But as Josh would find out, there are no sign posts up ahead in the valley of death. Even getting there takes some unmarked turns and blind faith.

Backpacker Magazine had listed the Cottonwood/Marble Canyon Loop in Death Valley as one of its top 25 hikes. So as 2006 came to a close, Josh slowly made his way to this desolate and bizarre part of California. Nearly 12 hours after leaving Phoenix, he set up camp at the end of a 4WD only road and the Cottonwood trailhead. It was a surprising sight the next morning - the wash was filled with trees and bamboo. His hike started with bushwhacking through the marshy reeds. When it cleared 5 miles later, he was far right of the stream and open desert spread out before him. His map showed another creek just outside the plain, so he passed the chance to refill his water supply.

It was a slow 2 mile hike across the plain and Josh wasn't sure when and where to make the turn into Marble Canyon. It came down to a guess, as he turned and crossed the low hills. At the top were panoramic views of the valley. Sand, dunes and scrub stretched out ahead sprinkled with spots of snow unmelted in the shadows. But the snow was the closest thing to water he could see.

He hiked into this new part of the desert as the light faded and found a campsite. Racing back against the light he zig zagged the wash looking for his spring until he could barely find his way back to camp. Nothing. He rationed his water and skipped dinner.

The next morning, Josh checked his position knowing the spring had to be nearby. He walked up the hill from his campsite, and it dropped off into a large canyon. He couldn't see it, but knew water had to be at the bottom. The only thing between him and his pot of gold was a mountain of scree. He slowly slide down the loose rocks. At the bottom was what he'd searched for so desperately the night before.

As the morning sun made its way into this deep canyon, he filtered water from the flowing spring and ate breakfast.

Great Parks: Death Valley

Death Valley, Calif.
December 2006
Hike: Cottonwood Springs, Marble Canyon
Length: 26 miles
Done in: 2 days
Man vs. Wild Moment: Where's the water?

In the Loop

The latest issue of National Geographic Adventure features the best of America's National Parks. Of the short list of nine, Josh has been to five. In many cases, he's made the same trips the magazine recommends. Secretary is making the call to see if they're hiring consultants...

A Coke and a Smile

In the morning light the field of chollas looked soft enough to hug, but Josh knew to keep his hands and feet in the Jeep as he sped down the dirt road. He was on his way to meet the Virtual Jeepsters for a day of wheeling in Box Canyon. He was late, but eventually caught up with them at the designated lunch spot. It was there that a small group decided on another destination - the Coke Ovens.

The "road" to these remote Arizona oddities required high clearance 4WD and experienced drivers. Josh was up for the challenge. Soon, he was dodging scorpions nesting in downed saguaro cactus as he made his way along the technical trail. The trio of Jeeps tackled a staircase of rocks and other bumpy terrain until it reached its destination.

The Coke Ovens are five beehive kilns standing 30 feet high in the no-man's land between Florence and Superior. In the late 1800s, the ovens were used to turn mesquite wood to coke - a type of charcoal that burns at a much higher temperature. The coke was then used to smelt gold and silver ore from neighboring mines. Aside from the Gila River and an old railroad, there isn't much but the idea of a road to ovens anymore.

They are well preserved for their age, and offer a cool rest stop, but not much else. Soon Josh and the Jeepsters were off, crossing the Gila River to a maintained dirt road and eventually, the main highway in Florence.

In true Western style, Josh said goodbye to his companions and set off into the setting sun in his trusty ride.